I’ve always dreamt of reporting from a country where a coup d’etat was taking place; dodging bullets, running through crowds of protesters, flashing a press card, with the camera still rolling.

My dream came true — though in a much more gentle way.

Last Tuesday night six generals assumed power in Thailand, in what appears to be a bloodless coup.

The coup execution was announced on all television channels, which screened General Sonthi Boonyaratglin announcing that the military had taken over running the country and Thaksin Shinawatra, the democratically elected billionaire Prime Minister, had been deposed.

Thaksin was in New York to deliver a speech to the United Nations.

Tanks have been positioned symbolically in front of the palace.

The next morning, thousands of kilometres away, I was buying postcards and noticed the cover of the Bangkok Post, one of Thailand’s two English language dailies. It said COUP D’ETAT.

This is Thailand’s 18th coup since the 1932, the end of the absolute monarchy. It was hoped that the constitution that was redrafted in 1997 may have provided some more stability for the country.

Bangkok today was peaceful, with most of the city’s inhabitants wearing yellow t-shirts as they traversed the streets, trampling frangipani underfoot. The yellow tshirts are to show support for the much revered King Bhumipol who has spoken in support of the Generals seizing power.

The Royal Plaza that surrounds the King’s palace has rows of tanks that are cordoned off.

There is a festival atmosphere and the plaza is packed with sightseers, balloon sellers, food carts and onomatopaeic tuk tuks.

Thais and farangs (foreigners) alike are lining up to have the photos taken with soldiers in front of tanks and presenting the soldiers with flowers, which are wilting on the tanks.

The soldiers were smiling

The uniformed men were treated, it seemed, when a troupe of camoflage mini skirted dancing girls poured from a SUV with darkened windows, placed a beat box on the ground and began to gyrate in support of the generals. The song and dance routine also included a mime to the distorted Thai pop that was coming from the beat box.

The soldiers were smiling.

Irreverence aside, this region is known for brutal and vindictive military power. Thailand’s neighbour, Myanmar (Burma) has been under military rule since 1968, not long after achieving independence from the British. The longer the Burmese junta rule, the more despotic, neurotic and devastating they become.
The coup is being reported as largely being welcomed amongst the Thais, although it is more a celebration of the fact that Thaksin Shinawatra has lost his hold on power.

Academics across the country have loudly been proclaiming that the way to democracy is not to destroy it.

There have also been reports of radio stations in the North of the country being closed by the military as they were seen to be creating unrest.

Thaksin, who is staying with his daughter in London where she attends university,  is accused of corruption and nepotism — of feathering his own nest and that of his cronies.

The junta, Council for Democratic reform under a constitutional Monarchy, (CDRM), has said it will install an interim prime minister by October 1st and will hold new elections as soon as possible. On the one hand this may be a good thing, although there are fears that the the interim leader will be a lackey of the junta, therefore annihilating the idea of a return to democracy in the immediate future.

The Thai Rak Thai (Thai love Thai) party, Thaksin’s own,  will most likely run for re-election although it is unlikely that Thaksin himself will stand as he will be facing a number of different corruption charges, although the CDRM said that they will allow him to return home.

Thailand’s often used moniker is the Land of Smiles. The generals are smiling at the moment and the people are pleased that the corruption has been stalled with the current leaders. The coming months will provide a better idea of whether the eighteen coup within the last one hundred years may be the last.

Tasmanian Rachel Edwards has a degree in journalism; and is travelling through and living in SE Asia.

Rachel Edwards

The uniformed men were treated, it seemed, when a troupe of camouflage mini skirted dancing girls poured from a SUV with darkened windows, placed a beat box on the ground and began to gyrate in support of the generals. The song and dance routine also included a mime to the distorted Thai pop that was coming from the beat box.